Keeping Busy in Quarantine

Although we've all spent most of the past 4 months at home, I don't know about you but I have been keeping quite busy. I am grateful that my design work and running Ficstitches Yarns Kit Club enables me to continue working from home, with the added challenge of balancing kids and family and allowing time for myself. For the first time since before I had 2 kids I have been gardening, baking, and walking regularly! And look here I'm even Blogging again!

This was just one very busy weekend.

With 10 and 14 year olds (15 as of last weekend) they are getting more self sufficient. But we are all enjoying the slower pace of the summer now that we don't have to struggle with online school. My kids have nearly as many interests and hobbies as I do, so we are never bored around here. Between my own projects I am helping them with theirs and keeping them in supplies for whatever craft or passion intrigues them in the moment.

I spent the first couple months helping my oldest deliver PPE parts he was 3-D printing for his Robotics Team to donate (they donated nearly 20,000 eye and face shields!). As that project wrapped up he was building a worm bin for his science class and melting recycled plastic into useful containers. My youngest is an avid reader, so I've been struggling to keep her supplied with books, in between drawing and other crafts.

All of this time at home has allowed me to focus on plans for future Ficstitches Yarns kits, and other projects. My business partner C. Jane Reid and I have been taking regular socially distanced walks around our neighborhood to both get exercise and plan out the stories, designs, and accessories for all of 2021!

I've even been experimenting with crafts besides crochet, which will be making their way into future kits. We always include something handmade that is part of the story that comes with the kit or useful for finishing the project. My son and I got a button maker back in March and are making buttons to go on the bags of each Kit this year. I made Leather Knot Stick Barrette/Shawl Pins for the Spring Kit and Beaded Bookmarks for the Summer Kit that just shipped out last month.

After 5 years of creating and shipping kits every 3 months, I am reinvigorated by planning to make most of the handmade goodies for the next year and a half myself! There is still time to get in on our Fall 2020 Kit Club so you can join the fun. Imagine getting your next crochet project delivered right to your door with a book to read along with it. Preorders close July 31st. Order yours today and join the adventure!

Spiral Rings - Moogly2020CAL

I am excited to be a part of Moogly's year long Crochet Along again this year! Each year it is so fun to see all of the different patterns from other designers, not to mention the creative color combinations people use for their Moogly2020CAL Blankets. This is my fourth year designing a square for the CAL, and I had a lot of fun coming up with this one. Enjoy!

~~~~~

Spiral Rings Pattern

Designed by Laurinda Reddig

Concentric circles are overlayed by rays coming out from the center of this afghan square. Spiral rays are worked with tall front post stitches worked into stitches 2 rounds below giving the square texture and flow.

FINISHED SIZE

12” by 12”

YARN USED

4 colors Worsted Weight yarn.

Sample working in Red Heart With Love, 100% acrylic, worsted weight yarn in Jadeite (A), Taupe (B), Cornsilk (C), and Mango (D).

NOTIONS

J hook (or hook to get gauge)

GAUGE

12 stitches by 7 rows = 4” by 4”

~~~~~

·     Pay close attention to which stitch to join in on each round. Sometimes it may be the second or the last stitch of the previous round.

·       All Front Post Double Treble Crochets (fpdtr) are worked around stitches on two rounds down.

·       Instructions in bold draw your attention to the first time a “Special Stitch” is used or the instructions change to something different from previous rounds.

SPECIAL STITCHES 

(find other Abbreviations used here)

Front Post Double Treble Crochet (fpdtr): Yo 3 times, insert hook around post of next st from front, yo, pull up a loop, [yo, draw through 2 lps on hook] 4 times.

Front Post Double Crochet (fpdc): Yo, insert hook around post of next st from front, yo, pull up a loop, [yo, draw through 2 lps on hook] 2 times.

Front Post Treble Crochet (fptr): Yo 2 times, insert hook around post of next st from front, yo, pull up a loop, [yo, draw through 2 lps on hook] 3 times.

Front Post Half Double Crochet (fphdc): Yo, insert hook around post of next st from front, yo, pull up a loop, yo, draw through all 3 lps on hook.

Front Post Single Crochet (fpsc): Insert hook around post of next st from front, yo, pull up a loop, yo, draw through 2 lps on hook.

Front Post Treble-Half Double Crochet 2 Together (fptr-hdc-2tog): *Yo 2 times, insert hook around post of indicated st from front, yo, pull up a loop, [yo, pull through 2 loops] 2 times, yo, insert hook in next st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through all 4 loops on hook.

Front Post Double Treble-Half Double Crochet 2 Together (fpdtr-hdc-2tog): *Yo 3 times, insert hook around post of indicated st from front, yo, pull up a loop, [yo, pull through 2 loops] 3 times, yo, insert hook in next st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through all 4 loops on hook.

HELPFUL TUTORIAL LINKS from Mooglyblog.com

Front Loop Only/Back Loop Only

Joining with a Double Crochet/Standing Double Crochet

Joining with a Half Double Crochet/Standing Half Double Crochet

Post Stitches and Post Stitches into Single Crochets

Overlapping Post Stitch Pattern

~~~~~

PATTERN 

(Refer to Diagram in Printable Version HERE)

Ch 3 with Color A, join with sl st in third ch from hook.

Rnd 1: Ch 2 (counts as first dc here and throughout), work 11 dc in ch-3 ring, join with sl st in first dc, finish off Color A – 12 dc.

Rnd 2: Join Color B with standing dc in second dc, dc in same dc, 2 dc in each dc around, 2 dc in joining sl st, join with sl st in first dc, finish off Color B – 24 dc.

Rnd 3: Join Color A with standing hdc in first dc, hdc in next dc, fpdtr (see Special Stitches) around beg ch of Rnd 1, *hdc in next 2 dc of Rnd 2, fpdtr around next unused dc of Rnd 1; Rep from * around, join with sl st in first hdc, finish off Color A – 36 sts.

Rnd 4: Join Color C with standing dc in last fpdtr of prev rnd (before join), *fpdc (see Special Stitches) around next 2 hdc, dc in top of next fpdtr; Rep from * around, fpdc around last 2 hdc, join with sl st in first dc, finish off Color C.

Rnd 5: Join Color A with standing hdc in first dc, hdc in next 2 sts, fpdtr around last fpdtr of Rnd 3, *hdc in next 3 sts of Rnd 4, fpdtr around next fpdtr of Rnd 3; Rep from * around, join with sl st in first hdc, finish off Color A – 48 sts.

Rnd 6: Join Color D with standing dc in last fpdtr of prev rnd, *fpdc around next 3 hdc, dc in next fpdtr; Rep from * around, fpdc around last 3 hdc, join with sl st in first dc, finish off Color D.

Rnd 7: Join Color A with standing hdc in first dc, hdc in next 3 sts, fpdtr around last fpdtr of Rnd 5, *hdc in next 4 sts of Rnd 6, fpdtr around next fpdtr of Rnd 5; Rep from * around, join with sl st in first hdc, finish off Color A – 60 sts.

Rnd 8: Join Color B with standing dc in last fpdtr of prev rnd, *fpdc around next 4 hdc, dc in next fpdtr; Rep from * around, fpdc around last 4 hdc, join with sl st in first dc, finish off Color B.

Rnd 9: Join Color A with standing hdc in first dc, hdc in next 3 sts, fpdtr around last fpdtr of Rnd 7, *hdc in next 5 sts of Rnd 8, fpdtr around  next fpdtr of Rnd 7; Rep from * around, hdc in last dc, join with sl st in first hdc, finish off Color A – 72 sts.

Rnd 10: Join Color C with standing dc in last fpdtr of prev rnd, *fpdc around next 4 hdc, 2 fpdc around next hdc, [dc in next fpdtr, fpdc around next 5 hdc] 2 times**, dc in next fpdtr; Rep from * 2 more times; Rep from * to ** once, join with sl st in first dc, finish off Color C – 76 sts.

Rnd 11: Join Color A with standing hdc in first dc, hdc in next 3 sts, fpdtr around last fpdtr of Rnd 9, *hdc in next 2 sts of Rnd 10, 2 hdc in next st, hdc in next 3 sts, fptr (see Special Stitches)  around next fpdtr of Rnd 9, hdc in next 7 sts of Rnd 10, fpdtr around next fpdtr of Rnd 9**, hdc in next 6 sts of Rnd 10, fpdtr around next fpdtr of Rnd 9; Rep from * 2 more times; Rep from * to ** once, hdc in last 2 dc, join with sl st in first hdc, finish off Color A – 92 sts.

Rnd 12: Join Color D with standing dc in first fpdtr of prev rnd, *fpdc around next hdc, fptr around next hdc, 2 fptr around each of next 2 hdc, fptr around next hdc, fpdc around next 2 hdc, dc in next fpdtr, fpdc around next 3 hdc, fphdc (see Special Stitches)  around next 4 hdc, hdc in next fpdtr, fphdc around next 2 hdc, fpdc around next 4 hdc**, dc in next fpdtr; Rep from * 2 more times; Rep from * to ** once, join with sl st in first dc, finish off Color D – 100 sts.

Rnd 13: Join Color A with standing hdc in first dc, hdc in next 4 sts, fpdtr around first fpdtr of Rnd 11, *2 hdc in next 2 fptr of Rnd 12, hdc in next 5 sts, fptr around next fptr of Rnd 11, hdc in next 9 sts of Rnd 12, fptr around next fpdtr of Rnd 11**, hdc in next 9 sts of Rnd 12, fpdtr around next fpdtr of Rnd 11; Rep from * 2 more times; Rep from * to ** once, hdc in last 4  join with sl st in first hdc, finish off Color A – 120 sts.

Rnd 14: Join Color B with standing hdc in last fptr of prev rnd, *fphdc around next 4 hdc, fpdc around next 5 hdc, tr in next fpdtr, 2 fptr around each of next 2 hdc, fptr around next hdc, fpdc around next 5 hdc, fphdc around next hdc, hdc in next fpdtr, fphdc around next 3 hdc, fpsc (see Special Stitches) around next 6 hdc**, hdc in next fpdtr; Rep from * 2 more times; Rep from * to ** once, join with sl st in first hdc, finish off Color B – 128 sts.

Rnd 15: Join Color A with standing hdc in first hdc, hdc in next 2 sts, *fptr-hdc-2tog (see Special Stitches) around last fptr of Rnd 13 and next st of Rnd 14, hdc in next 8 sts, 2 hdc in next fptr, fpdtr-hdc-2tog (see Special Stitches) around next fpdtr of Rnd 13 and next st of Rnd 14, 2 hdc in next fptr, hdc in next 8 sts, fptr-hdc-2tog around next fpdtr of Rnd 13 and next st of Rnd 14**, hdc in next 11 sts; Rep from * 2 more times; Rep from * to ** once, hdc in next 8 sts, join with sl st in first hdc, DO NOT finish off Color A – 136 sts.

Rnd 16: Ch1, sc in first 15 sts, *ch 1, sc in same st as prev sc, sc in next 34 sts; Rep from * 2 more times, ch 1, sc in same st as prev sc, sc in next 19 sts, join with sl st in first sc – 140 scs. Note: If your block is not quite 12”, you can add additional rounds of sc, or replace Rnd 7 with hdc or dc around, adding a couple additional stitches at each corner.

~~~~~

Find Moogly's blog post about the Spiral Rings Square here and everything you need to know about the Moogly2020CAL here!

You can find a printable PDF of this pattern on Ravelry here.

Go back and find the previous squares and check back at Moogly every week for a new Square design from a new designer. I cannot wait to see what colors you have chosen. Have fun!

Dyer Guest Post - Erica Roberts of In The Deep Hue Sea

For our Fall Ficstitches Yarns Kit Club, we are excited to be working with our friend and neighbor Erica. She actually lives just a few blocks away! Since we Profiled Erica a few years ago, I invited her to share her story with you in her own words...

A Dyers in Their Studios Update:

I’m Erica, dyer at In The Deep Hue Sea. I’ve been dyeing yarn since 2010 and dyeing full time for about 5 years now.

Only a Couple of Days Left to Preorder Your Fall Kit Club
featuring delicious DK weight Yarn from In The Deep Hue Sea!

Many things have changed since I started as a hobby, including growing our family. Last August we welcomed our 3rd baby, Indy, into the world. A handful of weeks after having her, as we were preparing our yarn for the Ficstiches Yarns club and Oregon Flock and Fiber Festival, we noticed our sweet baby wasn’t acting like herself.

We were being overly cautious and took her to the ER. That trip quickly turned in to a couple week stay for her. They never fully explained what was wrong, but luckily our baby was able to heal and she was released.

Since then my business has been put on the back burner. Dealing with a new baby, scary hospital stay, family, doctor appointments, health issues, there just wasn’t room for it all. While it’s been a challenging year it’s also been a wonderful year growing and enjoying time with my family.

Now that we are approaching one year since that all began, I am ready to get back into the game! I miss dyeing so very very much and while our lives have been full in other ways, I always have this inkling to create that wants to be in the forefront.

While my neighbors at Ficstiches Yarns don’t typically use dyers twice in such a short period of time, they so graciously chose me for their club yarn again this Fall! I am very excited to use this as a kicking off point to get back creating!

And we are excited to be working with her again, and this yummy DK weight superwash merino single ply yarn for our Fall Ficstitches Yarns Kit Club. Preorders end Wednesday July 31st, so don't miss your chance and Preorder Today!

Would you choose Princess Petunia?

Or Yolanda Yolk? Or Both?

Dyers In Their Studios: Kimberly of Cat Mountain Fiber Arts

We are excited to feature Cat Mountain Fiber Arts yarn in our upcoming 2019 Summer Kit Club for Ficstitches Yarns. Kimberly has created a custom version of her 500 yard Fusion, combining 8 different yarns, rather than the usual 5 yarns in her 500 yard Fusions. Her variety of fibers and textures all dyed together and combined into one giant "skein" (really 5, or in this case 8 mini skeins), were perfect to go with the depression era Fictional Story also included in the kit. Preorders for the Summer Kit are open this month only. Order yours today!

Will you choose Garnet or Cobalt for the Summer Kit?
Check out all those fibers in their natural state in the middle.

Kimberly was only the 3rd yarn dyer to let me interview her for a Dyers In Their Studios, back in 2014. I have since interviewed nearly 2 dozen different hand-dyers, and created designs with each of their yarns. Things may have changed some over the past 6 years, but Kimberly is still creating beautiful yarn and a very unique product which I was drawn to in the first place. Keep reading to learn more about Kimberly Perkins and Cat Mountain Fiber Arts...

~*~*~*~

I had the pleasure of meeting Kimberly Perkins at TNNA (The National Needlearts Association) Show last January. It was her first show, and I was immediately intrigued with her yarns. They are different from any other yarns I have seen, and I immediately wanted to design something to show off their unique qualities.

Like many hand dyed yarns, Cat Mountain yarns have been dyed in a loop, so each repeat of the color changes is approximately two yards long. However, instead of her skeins being made of all one yarn, each "skein" consists of smaller hanks of 5 to 10 different fibers all dyed at the same time. All yarns in a set are approximately the same weight in thickness so the work well together in one project. Kimberly includes mohairs, boucles, and one-plies to add texture to the smoother plied yarns. You even get to choose between adding a little sparkle with stellina, or the more homespun tweed texture of bits of 'Donegal' wool for one of the smoother yarns.

BACKGROUND

·   How long have you been dying yarn? Six years.

·  How did you get started dying? I wanted to try making my own colors, and actually started by playing with Kool-Aid!

· What is your background? BS in Environmental Science, 18 years employed in the environmental field.

·   Do you have any special experience with art or science that influences your dying? I enjoy the outdoors, literature and fine art, and many of my colorways are inspired by these. 

YOUR YARN

·   What makes your yarn special or unique? My fusion yarn combines color and texture with 5 to 10 different yarns all dyed together. 

·  What is something interesting about your dying process that non-dyers might not know? My process is quite labor intensive in that each skein is measured into the appropriate lengths and then tied for dyeing, so that the separate yarns receive the same dye. 

·   How do you choose your colors and name your yarns? Many of my colorways are inspired by my surroundings in the Colorado Rocky Mountains.  Others are inspired by literature and art that I enjoy. 

·   Where do you find inspiration? :)  See above. 

JUST THE FACTS

·   How many colorways do you have? 18, plus solids, and always coming up with more!

·   Do you create seasonal or special order colors?  Yep.

·   How many and what types of bases do you use?  20+ bases, predominantly natural fibers: wool, mohair, alpaca, angora, silk, bamboo, tencel and blends thereof.

·   Where can we find your yarn? LYSs and online?  Online at www.yarngalleryonline.com or Cat Mountain Fiber Arts on Etsy; Please see the right margin of my blog  http://catmountainfiberarts.blogspot.com/ for a list of yarn shops that carry my yarn.   

PERSONAL

·   What are your favorite colors?  Purples and greens.

·   Favorite fibers?  Wool and angora bunny.

·   Do you crochet, knit, or spin? What came first?  I learned to crochet as a small child and did crochet in 4-H for years.  I learned to knit around age 10 and stopped for awhile after knitting a dreaded boyfriend sweater and subsequently breaking up with said boyfriend (Ha!)  About 12 years ago I came across the book Tudor Roses by Alice Starmore and got back into knitting, and have been an avid knitter since.  I also spin (10+ years) and weave (5 years).

·  Anything else you would like to share?  Please see the right margin of my blog for a list of the fiber festivals and events I will be attending  http://catmountainfiberarts.blogspot.com/.

LINK UP
·   Website?  See above, also my blog is listed above.
·   Ravelry?  I am kimberlyknitter on Ravelry, and my yarn and pattern pages are:  http://www.ravelry.com/designers/kimberly-perkins

http://www.ravelry.com/yarns/brands/cat-mountain-fiber-arts

·   Facebook? https://www.facebook.com/CatMountainFiberArts

·   Twitter? @kimberlyknitter

All Photos © Kimberly Perkins

Tips for Weaving In Those Ends!

Speckled Skein and 5 Solid Minis
See what else was in our Spring Kit

I have been designing with a lot of "mini" skeins lately, inspired by the "make-do" attitude of the Depression Era, the setting for the story my partner C. Jane Reid has written for our Spring and Summer Ficstitches Yarns Kit Club. Both kits feature sets of yarn we chose to emulate the scraps of different colors or textures of yarn the main character may have had to work with when she wanted to make something to donate to families less fortunate than her own.

8 Diff. Textures from Cat Mountain
PREORDER the Summer Kit Now!

Although working with several smaller skeins or sections of color makes for a lot of extra ends to weave in, the results are totally worth it! This seemed like a good time to repost this post from March 2013, when I was just starting to get my crochet patterns published, although I had already been crocheting for nearly 30 years...

~ * ~ * ~ * ~

Laurinda's Top 5 Tips for Weaving In Ends:

1. Whenever you change colors or start a new ball of yarn, it is very important to leave several inches (4-6) of yarn in each color to weave in under the stitches.
2. You can use a yarn needle to weave in those ends, and it is a good idea to weave them back and forth in at least 2 different directions to help them stay put.
3. You may choose to work over your ends as you continue crocheting, but it is still a good idea to leave some end out to bring back in the other direction with a needle later.
4. Try to insert your needle horizontally along the bottom of a row of stitches, or vertically through the center of the stitches to avoid messing up the look of your stitches.
5. Longer ends worked in more than one direction will stay put longer and be less likely to unravel all your hard work!

~ * ~ * ~ * ~

While exploring my attic a few months ago, I came across the very first afghan I ever finished. When I found that pattern on the back of the band of yarn from K-Mart all those years ago, I never imagined I would end up designing crochet patterns, and even writing entire books of afghans!

In junior high, my Campfire leader taught me to crochet granny squares during my near daily visits, on my mile long walk home from the bus stop. Sometimes I would detour to K-Mart (also on my way home) to pick up a snack, and was excited to discover they also carried yarn. Of course it was all acrylic. But I did not know anything else existed, and took pleasure in choosing several shades of my favorite blues.

Now, I am very glad I made that first afghan in a nice sturdy acrylic. Because when I pulled it out recently, I realized that every end was tied in an overhand knot, and cut to about half an inch (if that). Over 20 years later, those tiny little knots are still holding strong, but it could have been a disaster!

You have to understand that this was a pattern where you changed colors EVERY row. Row upon row of single crochet, with drop down "Spike" stitches to create a pattern. What was I thinking? This thing took forever (one reason I seldom design in sc)! And even if the afghan has spent most of it's life tucked away in a closet or attic (let's face it, single crochet and acrylic yarn doesn't make for the most cozy of blankets), I would be heart broken if it began falling apart.

So, the moral of the story: WEAVE IN THOSE ENDS! I have been lucky that those knots did not come out years ago. Some of my other early projects did not fair as well, including those first Granny Squares which became a tree skirt I still use at Christmas. But when those short ends come out in the center of a Granny, what a nightmare!

I realize that many of us are mostly self taught, and if no one every told you to "leave long ends to weave in", how would you know? I sure wish someone had told me back then. So I thought I would include a few tips I have shared with my crochet students over the years.

What is one thing do you wish someone had told you when you first learned to crochet?

Pinwheel Square - Moogly2019CAL

I am thrilled to be a part of Moogly's year long Crochet Along again this year! Each year it is so fun to see all of the different patterns from other designers, not to mention the creative color combinations people use for their Moogly2019CAL Blankets. This is my third year designing a square for the CAL, and I decided to try something a little bit different. Enjoy!

~~~~~

Pinwheel Square Pattern

Designed by Laurinda Reddig

Get spun with this fun and colorful Pinwheel blanket square. Each petal is worked out from a center ring, then back in to opposite direction without turning to form the raised edges. The reverse single crochet edge is worked into the front loop only, leaving the back loop to stitch into for the next petal. This idea may have you spinning, but follow the instructions step by step and give it a try! (Scroll to bottom for link to get printable PDF).

FINISHED SIZE 12” by 12”

MATERIALS

4 colors Worsted Weight yarn and J hook (or hook to get gauge).

    Color suggestions A (darkest), B (medium), C (higher contrast), D (neutral).

    Sample working in Red Heart With Love, 100% acrylic, worsted weight yarn 

         in Peacock, Cornsilk, Lettuce, and Taupe.

13 Stitch Markers (recommended).

GAUGE 12 stitches by 7 rows = 4” by 4”.

~~~~~

SPECIAL STITCHES 

(find other Abbreviations used here)

Changing Colors: Work previous stitch up to last yarn over, yarn over to with new color, pull through last two loop, drop old color to back of work and continue with new color.

Double crochet 2 together (dc2tog): *Yo, insert hook into next dc, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops; Repeat from *, yo, pull through all 3 loops on hook.

Half double crochet 2 together (hdc2tog): Yo, insert hook into next ch-1 sp, yo, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yo, insert hook into next dc, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through all 5 loops on hook.

Half Treble Crochet (htr): Yo 2 times, insert hook into next st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops, yo, pull through remaining 3 loops on hook.

Reverse Single Crochet (revsc): Without turning your work, working from left to right (or right to left for left-handed crocheters), insert hook in the next stitch (under your hook), yo, pull up a loop without twisting the hook, yo, pull through both loops on hook.

Single Crochet 3 Together (sc3tog): [Insert hook into next st, yo, pull up a loop] 3 times, yo, pull through all 4 loops on hook.

Treble Crochet 3 Together (tr3tog): *Yo 2 times, insert hook into next st, yo, pull up a loop, [yo, pull through 2 loops] 2 times; Repeat from * 3 times, yo, pull through all 4 loops on hook.

TUTORIAL LINKS (on Mooglyblog.com)

Reverse Single Crochet/Crab Stitch

Front Loop Only/Back Loop Only

Joining with a Single Crochet/Standing Single Crochet

~~~~~

PATTERN (Refer to Diagram in printable PDF of this pattern here.)

Pinwheel Pattern Notes

• Reverse single crochets form the raised “crab stitch” edging of each Petal. They are worked from left to right (or right to left for left-handed crocheters).
• Recommended to place a stitch marker in the unused back loop of the last treble crochet stitch so make it easier to find on Rnd 1 of the Square.
• Each time you change colors on the Pinwheel, flip unused colors of yarn up under the hook, between the hook and working yarn. This will bring the yarn up so the new color is ready to join on the next Petal.
• The first sc of each Pinwheel Petal is worked in the previous color, making it easier to find the first stitch to work into for the next Petal.
• If you have trouble finding the center of the ring, or the first or last stitches on a petal or round, place a stitch marker in the stitch when you first make it.

Pinwheel Pattern

With Color A, ch 14. (Be sure to read all of the pattern notes before starting)

First Petal: Join with sl st in 4^th ch from hook to form ring (place stitch marker in center of ring), work into remaining chs, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, 2 hdc in next ch, dc in next ch, 2 dc in next ch, htr (see Special Stitches) in next ch, 2 htr in next ch, tr in next ch, 2 tr in next ch, tr in last ch, place stitch marker in back loop of last tr made; Do not turn, working back in the other direction, revsc (see Special Stitches) in the flo (front loops only) of each stitch across to ring (14 revscs), sl st in center of ring, do not turn.

Next Petal: Working in unused back loops (blo) of previous petal, sc in first sc changing color to B (see Special Stitches), hdc in next hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc, dc in next hdc, 2 dc in next dc, htr in next dc, 2 htr in next dc, tr in next htr, 2 tr in next htr, tr in next htr, leave remaining 4 sts unused; Do not turn, working back in the other direction, revsc in the flo of each stitch across to ring (last stitch will be in prev color), sl st in ring, do not turn.

Repeat “Next Petal” instructions for 10 more Petals. Change to color C for third Petal, then alternate colors A, B, and C around for a total of 12 petals.

Joining Petals: Fold Petals so front (or right) sides of first and last petal are facing together. Join petals together by slip stitching through both the back loop of Last Petal and unused loops of beginning chain on First Petal, keeping slip stitches on the back (or wrong) sides. Finish off all three colors.

Square Pattern Notes

• If loops are getting too loose when working only into the back loop, pull up on ridge of revscs. This will pull up the front loops they were worked into, tightening back loops so the holes do not seem as big.
• The back loop of the last treble on each petal may be difficult to find unless you used stitch markers. However, you can use any loop at the top of that stitch that works for you, just be consistent.

Square Pattern

With right side facing, work into back loops of the last 5 trebles that at the ends of each Petal (behind the revscs).

Rnd 1: Working into any of the color A Petals, join color D with a sc in blo of third unused tr (stitch before marker), *ch 2, sc in unused blo of next tr of same petal (see pattern notes), sk to next Petal, tr in same back loop as last tr worked into next Petal, [dc in blo of next tr, hdc in blo of next tr, sc in blo of last 2 trs, sk to next Petal, dc in same back loop as last tr worked into next Petal] 2 times, dc in blo of next tr, hdc in blo of next tr**, sc in blo of next tr; Rep from *2 more times; Rep from * to ** once, join with sl st in first sc – 60 sts and 4 ch-2 sps.

Rnd 2: Ch 2 (does not count as a st here and throughout), dc in first sc, *(2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in ch-2 sp, dc in next 2 sts, hdc in next 2 sts, sc in next 7 sts, hdc in next 2 sts**, dc in next 2 sts; Rep from * 2 more times; Rep from * to ** once, dc in last st, join with sl st in first dc – 76 sts and 4 ch-1 sps.

Rnd 3: Ch 2, dc in first 3 dc, *(2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in ch-1 sp, dc in next 5 sts, hdc in next 3 sts, sc in next 3 sts, hdc in next 3 sts, **, dc in next 5 sts; Rep from * 2 more times; Rep from * to ** once, dc in last 2 dc, join with sl st in first dc. Finish off color D – 92 sts and 4 ch-1 sps.

Rnd 4: Join color B with sl st in second dc made on Rnd 3, ch 2, dc in same dc as join, *3 tr in next dc, dc2tog (see Special Stitches), hdc2tog in next ch-sp and dc (see Special Stitches), [dc in next st, 3 tr in next st, dc in next st, hdc in next st, sc in next st, hdc in next st] 3 times**, dc in next dc; Rep from * 2 more times; Rep from * to ** once, join with sl st in first dc. Finish off color B – 120 sts.

Rnd 5: Join color C with sc in second tr of prev rnd, 2 sc in same tr, *sc in each of next 5 sts, [3 sc in next tr, sc in next 2 sts, sc3tog (see Special Stitches), sc in next 2 sts] 3 times**, 3 sc in next tr; Rep from * 2 more times; Rep from * to ** once, join with sl st in first sc. Finish off color C – 128 sts.

Rnd 6: Join color A with sc in second sc of prev rnd, *hdc in next sc, dc in next sc, (dc, tr) in next sc, 2 tr in next sc, (tr, dc) in next sc, dc in next sc, hdc in next sc, [sc in next sc, hdc in next sc, dc in next sc, tr3tog (see Special Stitches), dc in next sc, hdc in next sc] 3 times**, sc in next sc; Rep from * 2 more times; Rep from * to ** once, join with sl st in first sc. Finish off color A – 116 sts.

Rnd 7: Join color D with sc in first sc of prev rnd, sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next tr, ch 2, 2 sc in next tr, *sc in next 27 sts, 2 sc in next tr, ch 2, 2 sc in next tr; Rep from * 2 more times, sc in next 22 sts, join with sl st in first sc. Finish off color D and weave in all ends – 128 sts. Note: If your block is not quite 12”, you can add additional rounds of sc, or replace Rnd 7 with hdc or dc around, adding a couple additional stitches at each corner. each corner.

Find Moogly's blog post about the Pinwheel Square here and everything you need to know about the Moogly2019CAL here! 

You can find a printable PDF of this pattern with Diagram on Ravelry here.

Now, go back and find the previous three squares and check back at Moogly every week for a new Square design from a new designer. I cannot wait to see what colors you have chosen. Have fun!